/ Residential & Commercial Customers Answer Center
Residential & Commercial Customers Answer Center
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Here is a list of the 20 most frequently asked questions and links to their solutions:
If you cannot find your answer to an issue with a residential product here, please contact us to help find a solution to your issue.John Deere - 'Contact Us' form
Answer: For 2-cycle engines, most commonly used on string trimmers, chain saws and blowers, you must mix the unleaded fuel with a high-quality 2-cycle engine oil. To ensure the proper fuel mix ratio, use John Deere Premium Exact Mix 2-Cycle engine oil. When this oil is properly mixed it can be run in any 2-cycle unit no matter what the mix ratio is. Use 2.6 ounces of Exact Mix oil; thoroughly mix the entire contents with 1 gallon (approximately 4 liters) of fresh, unleaded gasoline. This is a 50:1 fuel to oil mix. Exact Mix engine oil provides complete lubrication protection for any 2-cycle engine. If using other name brand, quality two cycle engine oil, mix 4.0 ounces of oil with one gallon of fresh, unleaded gasoline. This is a 32:1 fuel to oil mixture. Additionally, Exact Mix oil contains an antioxidant fuel stabilizer. Under average conditions, fuel will stay fresh up to 30 days. We do not recommend the use of Ethanol gasoline in any of our handheld products.
Do not use motor oil or marine two cycle oil in these engines. These oils do not meet the same specifications and internal engine damage may occur.
How do I charge the dead or low battery on my lawn tractor?
First and foremost - care must be taken when working with batteries and electrical systems. Please review the following warnings regarding batteries. If you do not feel confident that you can perform these operations safely, or this answer does not help resolve the issue you are experiencing, please see your nearest John Deere Dealer. CAUTION: Avoid injury! The battery produces a flammable and explosive gas. The battery may explode. Please follow the guidelines below:
• Do not smoke or have an open flame near a battery. • Wear eye protection and gloves. • Do not allow direct metal contact across battery posts. • Do not jump start or charge a frozen battery. • Warm the battery to at least 16°C (60°F). • Remove the negative cable first when disconnecting. • Install the negative cable last when connecting. • Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead components. Wash your hands after handling. Charging the Battery (Note: The charger should be unplugged from the power source )
To charge your battery: 1. Set the charger to 12V, 2 AMPS (or Automatic, if it has that setting) 2. Connect the RED clip of the charger to the positive (+) terminal of the battery 3. Connect the BLACK clip of the charger to the negative (-) terminal of the battery 4. It is now safe to plug the charger into the wall. a. The battery will need to charge for several hours. Many newer battery chargers will turn themselves off when the battery is fully charged. If your charger does not have that feature, do not let the battery charge for more than 8 hours.
Note: 1. Your battery may be smaller than the battery shown. 2. The battery does not need to be removed from the machine. Jump starting may get your engine started, but if the battery is dead, it may not have time to fully charge the battery for the next time you use it. After jump starting, it is advantageous to follow the steps above to fully charge the battery. *For instructions on how to jump start a dead or low battery, please see below. Batteries can go dead for many reasons. Understanding why your battery is dead may be the key to preventing it in the future. Please review these questions:
1. Did you leave the key on and drained the battery? Do not leave the key in the 'on' position. The mower is equipped with a safety switch in the seat. If you leave the seat without setting the brake, the engine will die. If they key is on and the lights are on, it will quickly drain the battery and the hour meter will continue to run.
2. Did the battery go dead while trying to start the engine? Most engines will start quickly. Avoid cranking for longer than 5 seconds. If the engine does not start, wait 10 seconds and then crank another 5 seconds. For most machines, setting the throttle at the Â¾ position and using the choke for only about 2 seconds at a time will start the engine the quickest. If the engine won't start in 2 or 3 attempts, something may be wrong with it. Please contact your dealer for assistance.
3. Is the battery low on charge or dead? A battery can lose its charge if it is not used for 3-4 weeks. If you are not using your machine for extended periods of time, such as storing it for the winter, it would be a good idea to disconnect it from your machine. The day before you are going to use the machine again, just put the battery charger on it for 6-8 hours to assure that your battery is fully charged.
4. Does the battery seem to drain while you are using the machine? Did you know that operating your machine at Full Throttle is the best way to run your engine? The engine works the best at full RPM. It has the most HP and the fan on the engine works the best at full RPM, helping it to run cooler. The transmission is also cooled by a fan, driven right from the engine. The faster the engine is turning, the faster the fan on the transmission turns. The charging system is dramatically affected by engine RPM. Even running at 10% low on RPM will make a significant reduction in charging output. Running at less than full throttle can slowly drain the battery because the charging system cannot keep up with the demands on the battery (lights, PTO clutch). At idle, the charging system has almost no output.
Jump Starting a Battery Follow the procedure below when using a booster battery to jump start your lawn mower battery. Note: All John Deere ride on equipment use a 12 volt battery. Be sure that the booster battery is also 12 volts. CAUTION:
Avoid injury! The battery produces a flammable and explosive gas. The battery may explode: • Do not smoke or have open flame near battery. • Wear eye protection and gloves. • Do not jump start or charge a frozen battery. Warm battery to 16°C (60°F). • Do not connect the negative (-) booster cable to the negative (-) terminal of the discharged battery. Connect at a good ground location away from the discharged battery. Care must be taken when working with batteries and electrical systems. If you do not feel confident that you can perform these operations safely, please see your nearest John Deere Dealer
A - Booster Battery B - Disabled Vehicle (Tractor) Battery NOTE: To avoid possible electrical problems due to overload, Leave the booster vehicle (i.e. automobile) keyswitch in the "OFF" position.
1. Connect positive (+) booster cable to booster battery (A) positive (+) post (C). 2. Connect the other end of positive (+) booster cable to the disabled vehicle battery (B) positive (+) post (D). 3. Connect negative (-) booster cable to booster battery negative (-) post (E). IMPORTANT: Avoid damage! Electric charge from booster battery can damage machine components. Do not install negative booster cable to machine frame. Install only to the engine block. Install negative booster cable away from moving parts in the engine compartment, such as belts and fan blades.
4. Connect the other end (F) of negative (-) booster cable to a metal part of the disabled machine engine block away from battery. 5. Start the engine of the disabled machine and run machine for several minutes. 6. Carefully disconnect the booster cables in the exact reverse order: negative cable first and then the positive cable.
In general, for gasoline engines you should select your oil based on the expected air temperature range during the period between oil changes. The following John Deere oils are preferred: – Turf Guard 10W-30 – Plus-4 10W-30 Other oils may be used if John Deere oils are not available, providing they meet one of the following specifications: – SAE 5W-30 API Service Classification SG or higher – SAE 10W-30 API Service Classification SG or higher – SAE 30 API Service Classification SG or higher Synthetic engine oil can be used in Lawn & Garden products, but we recommend waiting until the second oil change interval (about 50 hours) to switch from petroleum-based engine oil to synthetic oil. This ensures that the engine is thoroughly broken in. If synthetic oil is used, continue to use the viscosity recommended in the Operator's Manual. Note: The use of synthetic oils such as Mobil 1 is acceptable; however, you must change the oil at the recommended service intervals as outlined in the Operator's Manual, NOT the extended intervals as described on the oil bottle. When adding oil after an oil change add oil no higher than FULL mark on dipstick. Use approximately the amount of oil listed in the Specifications section of your operator manual. Do not overfill. For oil capacity please reference your Operators Manual. Some operator's manuals are available online
. To purchase John Deere oil please see your nearest John Deere Dealer
Learn More on John Deere Oils and Lubricants
Since we first started using hour meters on 100 Series John Deere Tractors and Scotts and Sabre Branded Tractors in 2003, the hour meter functionality has changed. Listed below are frequently asked questions related to this component. Also, at the end of this answer is a table detailing year model functionality. Frequently Asked Questions: Q. Does the hourglass displayed in the upper left hand (LH) corner mean the hour meter is running?
A. No. On early models (see attached file for serial number breaks) the hourglass image is displayed constantly only when the ignition switch is in the OFF/STOP position. If the ignition switch is in the ON/RUN position, the hour glass in the upper LH corner flashes.
Q. How long does the service reminder feature display before and after each service interval? A. This can vary depending upon the model tractor you have and what year it was manufactured. On newer models, your hour meter will display for ½ hour before and ½ hour after the service interval. Older models display for 1 hour before and 1 hour after the service interval. Please reference the attached file for specific time frames when this change occurred.
Q. Can the hour meter or service reminder feature be reset? A. No, it cannot be reset.
Q. Are the service intervals different for the engines with or without oil filters? A. No, the hour meter is designed for both engines.
Q. After 100 hours are accumulated on the engine/tractor, what shows up in the hour meter display? A. The hour meter can display up to 5 digits. The maximum display is 9999.9.
Q. Is it possible to have both the engine and the mower deck service reminders displayed at the same time? A. Yes, every 100 hours both the engine and the mower deck service reminders will display. Refer to the 3-step example above.
Q. How long does the service reminder feature display before and after each service interval? A. This can vary depending upon the model tractor you have and what year it was manufactured. On newer models, your hour meter will display for ½ hour before and ½ hour after the service interval. Older models display for 1 hour before and 1 hour after the service interval. Please reference the attached file for specific time frames Product Identification Number (PIN) or serial number ranges when this change occurred. For assistance locating the Production Identification Number (PIN) or serial number on your unit, please see Answer #12: Product Identification Number (PIN) or Serial Number or Lawn Mower ID No.. The following section below provides a description of the differences between some of the earlier models and the newer models: 100 Series Models: L110 Below GXL110A0140001 (optional equipment) L111 Below GXL111A062850 L118 Below GXL118B080358 L120 Below GXL120D175520 L130 Below GXL130A147548 Sabre Models: 14.542GS, 1642HS, 1742HS, 17.542HS Sabre Models: L1742, L17.542, L2048, L2548
Service (SVC) arrow indicators will last for 2 hours. It will display 1 hour before the specified interval and 1 hour after the specified interval. The left "SVC" Arrow intervals occur at 5, 25, and every 25 hours thereafter. A "SVC" arrow pointing to the left will indicate that service is necessary for the engine. A "SVC" arrow pointing to the right will indicate that service is needed for the mower. For example see the photo below.
The photo below represents how the dash and hour meter appears on the following models: 100 Series: L110 - GXL110A014001 and Higher (optional equipment) L111 - GXL111A062850 and Higher L118 - GXL118B080358 and Higher L120 - GXL120D175520 and Higher L130 - GXL130A147548 and Higher and G100, G110, LA105, LA115, LA125, LA135, LA145, LA165, LA175, L111, 102 (optional), 115 (optional), 125, 135, 145, 155C, 190C, LA100 (optional), LA105, LA110 (optional), LA120, LA130, LA140, LA150, D100, D110, D120, D130, D140, D150, D160, and D170
The service (SVC) arrow indicators will last for 1 hour. It will display Â½ hour before the specified service interval and one 1/2 hour after the specified service interval. The left "SVC" arrow will occur at 25 hour intervals (25, 50, 75, 100 etc.). A "SVC" arrow pointing to the left will indicate that a general lubrication interval has been reached. The right "SVC" arrow will occur at 50 hour intervals (50, 100, 150, etc.). A "SVC" arrow pointing to the right will indicate that service is necessary for the mower and the engine.
John Deere has numerous customer assistance centers located in the U.S. and Canada. If you are not located in the U.S. or Canada, please visit our John Deere Worldwide Webpage
. Select your country, then the "Contact Us" link for that country. Some centers offer answers to Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ's). For product issues, please contact your local John Deere Dealer
as your dealer is technically trained in the areas of service and support. For Parts Inquiries please see Answer #20: How to Obtain Parts or Parts Information
for look up and purchase options. For: Residential and Commercial Equipment
(for Residential and Commercial applications such as walk behind mowers, riding mowers, commercial mowing equipment, Gator Utility Vehicles, and Compact and Sub-Compact Utility Tractors, and websites for these products) Phone: 1-800-537-8233 March — September Hours: 7:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m. (CST) Monday – Friday and 8:00 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. (CST) Saturday Closed Sunday and Holidays October — February Hours: 7:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. (CST) Monday – Friday and 8:00 a.m. – 2:00 p.m. (CST) Saturday Closed Sunday and Holidays OR Contact Us Agriculture Equipment
(For Ranching and Farming applications such as Utility Tractors, Combines, Balers, Cotton Pickers, Planters and Seeders and websites for these products) Phone: 1-866-993-3373 Business Hours: 7:00 am - 5:00 pm (CST) Monday - Friday Closed Saturday, Sunday and Holidays OR Contact Us Stellar Support and JDLink Support
Phone: Click for phone listings OR Contact Us Construction & Forestry Equipment
(For Construction and Forestry applications such Crawlers, Skid Steer Loaders, Harvesters, Knuckleboom Loaders, and Dozers and websites for these products) Phone: 1-844-809-1508 OR Contact Us Engines & Drivetrain Products
(For Industrial Diesel Engines, Generator Drive Engines, Marine Diesel Engines and Drivetrain Components and websites for these products) Phone: 1-800-533-6446 OR Contact Us John Deere Financial – USA
Phone: Click for phone listings OR Email Us John Deere Financial - Canada
Phone: Click for phone listings OR Email Us John Deere General Feedback Feedback Form
Getting started: Safety is always a #1 priority, please follow the steps listed below: • Work on a level surface • Ensure your equipment is secure, use blocks if needed • If possible, install your tire chains in a warm place •Removing the tires or wheel assemblies is optional. It can increase the chance of losing parts (such as axle keys and e-clips), but may make it easier to install the chains properly. You can also lift the rear of the tractor to make installation easier. •Chains get tangled in the box. Remove the chains from the box and untangle the chains from each other and themselves •Lay the chains out on the floor. Take a moment to identify all the parts of the tire chain. Notice that they have a regular hook on one side and a lever fastener on the other side. The regular hook goes on the inside, closest to the transmission. The lever fastener goes on the outside.
•There is also a "right side up". The opening in the hooks for the cross links always faces away from the rubber tire.
Steps to install: 1. Drape chain over the tire. Make sure the open side of the hooks for the cross links is away from the rubber tire. The regular hook should be on the inside. The lever fastener should be on the outside. 2. Try to center the chain on the tread of the tire as close as possible. Make sure the cross chains are straight across the face of the tire tread.
3. Hook the regular hook on the inside to a link on the other side of the chain. Use the tightest link possible without moving the chain from its centered position on the tread.
4. On the outside of the tire, hook the lever fastener through an open link on the free end of the rim chain. Make sure the extra links do not interfere with the lever.
5. Next, fold the lever fastener back 180 degrees. If the lever won't fold back all the way, try one link longer. If the lever folds easily, try one link shorter.
6. Hook the end through a link on the rim chain.
7. Check the chain tension. When the tension is correct, it will be difficult to fit a finger between the tire and any of the chain links. If the chains are not tight, release the lever fastener and move the regular hook on the inside one link shorter, then use install the lever fastener in a position one link shorter. If it is difficult to reach the shorter links, check for cross links that may be caught in the tire treads. Reposition the cross links so they are all as parallel to each other as possible, then try to hook the next shortest links. It may take several tries to get the correct tension on the chains. 8. Reinstall wheel and tire assemblies or let the tractor down, if necessary. 9. Test drive chains by driving the tractor about 40 feet. Recheck chain tension. Tighten if loose. The chains must be snug against the tires. If left too loose, they will fall off during operation. 10. Use wire or a nylon zip tie to secure any excess rim links. This will prevent damage to the tractor fender or transmission case.
Frequently Asked Questions:
Q: Do I really need chains? A: Probably. Most tractors with turf tires do not have enough traction to operate in slippery conditions. The only exception is Heavy Duty All Tires (HDAP) used on some larger Lawn & Garden tractors which perform well without tire chains on slick surfaces. Tire chains and additional ballast (either wheel weights or frame weights, depending on the model) are necessary for snow removal attachments.
Q: Can I deflate the tires to make chain installation easier? A: Yes, but it is normally not necessary. Deflating the tires adds another step to the process and only helps marginally. Also, it is easy to accidentally break the seal on the bead of the tire when the tires are deflated, making re-inflation without special equipment difficult.
Q: What is the white powder that's all over my new chains? A: Some chains are coated with a rust preventative talc to absorb moisture during storage and shipping. Q: My tire chains fall off when I'm driving. What's wrong? A: The chains were probably not tight enough. If they went on easily, they weren't really tight. It should take some effort to fasten the lever fastener to the rim chain link. When installed correctly, it will be difficult to slip a finger between the tire and any of the chain links. Q: Will using tire chains wear the black seal coat on my asphalt drive way? A: Yes. Asphalt seal coat is a thin coating on the surface of the pavement. Metal tire chains will wear this surface off much faster than rubber tires. If you need more information on compatibility of tire chains and your driveway surface, contact your pavement installer. Q: Will using tire chains damage brick pavers or concrete driveways? A: Yes, but the color in most brick pavers goes all the way through the brick, so scratches in the surface caused by tire chains usually don't show very much. Surface scratches in concrete are usually minor and do not show. If you need more information on compatibility of tire chains and your driveway surface, contact your pavement installer.
Q: I have a hill in my yard that I can't get up when I'm mowing because the tires spin. Is it okay to use tire chains to get more traction? A: No. If you are having any trouble climbing a hill with out tire chains, then the hill is too steep to safely operate your tractor.
Q: My tire chains are rusting. Is there something wrong with them? A: No, the chains are plated so they will resist rust. However, the plating will scratch off from contact with the pavement. Chains are also frequently exposed to water or salt. These conditions will cause light surface rust. This is normal and it will take many years for the rust to weaken the chains.
Q: Why are the chains so long? The dealer insists he gave me the right chains for my tractor, but they are way too long. A: Chains are sized according to the tires size that they are intended to fit. Different tire manufacturers and different tire designs will have different tread profiles even though the listed size of the tire is the same. The chains are made to fit all tread designs for a particular tire size. This means that the chains may seem too big or too long for some tires of a particular size and about the right size for other tires of the same size.
Q: Can I install tire chains on the front tires? A: Generally, tire chains are recommended for use on the rear traction tires only. If you have 2 Wheel Drive, tire chains will not improve traction on the front tires. Tire chains on the front tires of Mechanical Front Wheel Drive (MFWD) or All-Wheel Drive tractors may have interference with steering components which may cause chains to damage the front differential. Changing the tires to Heavy Duty All Purpose tires is a better option for tractors with front wheel drive.
John Deere no longer offers a John Deere Branded Walk-behind Snowthrower. Please contact your nearest John Deere Dealer as some dealers do carry Honda branded walk-behind snowthrowers. Find a John Deere Dealer near you
L100, L108, L110, L111, L118, L120, L130, LA100, LA105, LA110, LA115, LA120, LA125 LA130, LA135, LA140, LA145, LA150, LA155, LA165, 102, 115, 125, 135, 145, 155C
Refer to your operator's manual first. If you are interested in purchasing an operator's manual, please call 1-800-522-7448 or order online
. Please have your 13-digit Product Identification Number (serial number) and credit card number available when you call. Instructions to install the bagger are included in the pdf file attached below. Tips to install chute are shown below. Adobe® Acrobat Reader DC®
(free download) is required to open the file. If you are not comfortable or capable of performing the steps described, please contact your local John Deere dealer for assistance. Find your nearest John Deere dealer
. Tips to install chute: To install the chute, start with the deck in the raised position and do the following: 1. Lift plastic discharge shield and pull out and lift inner metal shield. Have someone hold these up while installing the bagger chute to the deck. On the 42" deck, position the chute with the chute latch behind or to the rear of the chute hinge bracket. On the 48" deck, slide the metal hook under the shield hinge and position the metal hook behind the front hinge mounting bolt.
2. Start at the rear of the mower discharge opening and install the bagger chute locating pin in the slot and notch. Once that locating pin is in position in the deck, rotate the chute and push in position on the top of the deck opening between the deck and the metal discharge shield. Note: It is not necessary for the rear locating pin to slide all the way forward in the slot.
3. Finally, push the front of the bagger chute down in front of the deck opening and latch the bungee cord in the hole in the gauge wheel bracket securing the chute to the deck.
GT2554, L1742, L17.542, L2048, L2548, S1642, S1742, S2046, S2048, S2348, S2554, SP6211, SP6213
A variety of manufacturers have produced Scotts branded lawn equipment over the years. John Deere manufactured several models of Scotts tractors and walk-behind lawn mowers from 1999 until 2002. Below is a listing of Scotts Products Manufactured by John Deere. Specifications and operation of the unit can be found in the Operator Manual. Listings of parts can be found in the Parts Catalog and Year Model will allow you to identify the Year Model based on the Product Identification Number (serial number). Scotts Products Manufactured by John Deere 2002 Models: • L1742
Lawn Tractor - 17hp 42" deck • L17.542
Lawn Tractor - 17.5hp 42" deck • L2048
Lawn Tractor - 20hp 48" deck • L2048
Lawn Tractor - 25hp 48" deck • L2048
Garden Tractor - 25hp 48" deck 2001 & Previous Year Models • S1642
Lawn Tractor - 16hp 42" deck • S1742
Lawn Tractor - 17hp 42" deck • S2046
Lawn Tractor - 20hp 46" deck • S2546
Lawn Tractor - 25hp 54" deck • S2048
Garden Tractor - 20hp 48" deck • S2348
Garden Tractor - 23hp 48" deck • S2554
Garden Tractor - 25hp 54" deck • SP6211
21-inch Walk Behind Rotary Mower • SP6213
21-inch Walk Behind Rotary Mower Resources: Answer #19: Operator's Manuals - Scotts Models Parts Catalogs (search by Model Number ie. S1642, SP6213) Attachment Compatibility:
Please contact your nearest John Deere dealer
for attachments compatible with your Scotts Branded Lawn Tractor. Your John Deere Dealer can provide availability and pricing Market Value:
The value of your product will vary depending on the condition of the machine and the market in the area. Please check with your nearest John Deere dealer
for an estimate.
There are various ways to obtain an Operator's Manual. The Operator's Manual includes assembly and operation instructions, service intervals, and maintenance instructions (i.e. oil and air filter changes). View Online Manuals
- Operator's Manuals are available online for many current and some non-current products (John Deere, Sabre and Scotts Brands). Manuals available to view online can be printed by page view. Replacement operators manuals for both new and older models may be purchased by calling 1-800-522-7448 or through our Online Bookstore
. Please have your model number and 17-digit*
Product Identification Number available. * 2010 and earlier models have 13-digit Product Identification Numbers. Models built in the 60's and 70's may have 5 or 6 digit serial numbers.
If you purchased your unit NEW from Lowe's or The Home Depot and did not receive a manual at time of purchase, please call 1-800-537-8233 for assistance. Please be sure to have the product identification number (PIN) and your sales receipt when you call. If you purchased a new John Deere product from a dealer, please contact your nearest John Deere dealer
if you did not receive an operator's manual. For other publications such as Technical/Service Manuals visit our Online Bookstore
Riding Mowers, Gator Utility Vehicles, Utility Tractors
You may access information through our online brochures
. Your John Deere dealer
is also a great resource for information on attachments & implements including compatibility, availability, and pricing.
Steel-deck Walk-behind Mowers, 100 Series Tractors, EZTrak Zero-Turn Mowers
Answer: There are several locations where your PIN may be found, depending on what series of equipment you purchased. The PIN is normally 13-digits (2010 and older units) or 17-digits (2011 and newer units). The PIN on units built in the 60's and 70's may contain only 5 to 6 digits. To locate your PIN, please refer to your Operators Manual as most manuals include the location of the PIN (serial number) if applicable to your product. John Deere Steel-Deck Walk-Behind Mowers The 13-digit or 17-digit PIN is located on the left side (if you are standing behind the machine) of the mower deck. This number is located on a sticker that states "Manufactured by John Deere." John Deere 100 Series Tractors (includes L Series, LA Series, and D Series Models) The 13-digit or 17-digit PIN is located on the frame above the left rear wheel. This number is located on a sticker that states "Manufactured by John Deere."
John Deere Zero-Turn Mowers (EZTrak Zero-Turn Mowers) Models Z235 and Z255 While standing near the right rear wheel, your PIN is located on the top of the frame to the left of the rear right wheel. This 13-digit or 17-digit number is located on a sticker that states "Manufactured by John Deere."
Models Z225, Z245, and Z425 Please lift up the seat to locate the Product Identification Number located on a sticker that states "Manufactured by John Deere"
All other John Deere Power Products
If you cannot locate the PIN, refer to your Operators Manual
or contact us by selecting the "Ask John Deere" tab above.
What causes fuel to get into the engine oil and raise the oil level above full on the engine oil dipstick?
Affected Equipment: Utility Vehicle Models: CX, TS, TH6X4, TX4X2, XUV 620i, HPX 4X4
Oil levels may rise as unburned fuel mixes with the oil in the crankcase by traveling along the cylinder wall. Oil dilution from gas in an internal combustion engine is NORMAL operation. The following lists are ways you can help prevent the oil levels from continuing to rise. - Stay away from operating vehicle in short trips with light engine loads. The reason for this is that the engine oil temperature does not get hot enough to boil-off fuel and moisture in the crankcase. Running the engine at operating temperature and under load for long enough periods of time will allow the fuel to evaporate. NOTE: As ambient air temperature decreases oil dilution will increase because the engine oil is colder. - Another common denominator for oil dilution is poor fuel quality. Stale gasoline cannot burn fully and ends up in the crankcase. Use only high quality fuels and consume all fuel within a 30 day time-frame. Recommended fuel is 87 octane. Use of fuel stabilizer will extend fuel life (Stabil or Seafoam are acceptable). - Do not use more than 15% ethanol mix.
If your equipment will not start and smells like fuel, please refer to the steps below for troubleshooting assistance. 1: Lay the unit on a flat, bare surface. 2: To "un-flood" an engine, remove the air filter cover and air filter. If the air filter is saturated with fuel mix, clean the filter per instructions in owner's manual. If there is an excessive amount of fuel mix in the carburetor throat or air filter box, sponge the fuel mix out with a paper towel. 3: Move the choke lever to the run position. If unit has an On-Off switch, push switch to ON or run position, hold throttle open (with trigger depressed fully), and pull starter rope briskly 8 to 10 times to start engine. 4: Most likely the unit will start and run poorly. Run the engine 30 to 45 seconds at full throttle (with trigger depressed fully). Release throttle trigger after all the excessive fuel is burned out of system. The engine will sound like it is running smooth again. 5: Install the air filter and air filter cover and you are ready to use. 6: If the unit still did not start, it may be necessary to remove the spark plug and pull the starter rope 10 to 15 times to purge the excess fuel from the engine. Make sure the spark plug hole is aimed at the ground during this step. Clean and reinstall spark plug and follow same steps above. 7: If the unit still fails to start, please take unit into nearest John Deere dealer
for proper diagnosis or repair.
GT225, GT235, GT325, GT335, GT345, GT425, LA100, LA105, LA110, LA115, LA120, LA125, LA130, LA135, LA140, LA145, LA150, LA155, LA165, LA175, LT133, LT155, LT166, LX255, LX277, LX288, X300, X304, X320, X324, X340, X360
If your tractor has any of these symptoms: surging, fluctuations in speed, running poorly, not reaching full fast idle specification or low power - you may have stale fuel or varnish (or other debris) in the carburetor. It is also important that only fresh fuel is used. Follow the steps below to solve: Step 1: Check the condition of the engine air filter. Replace the air filter if it has dust and/or debris adhering to the outside of the filter element. Step 2: Open the drain screw on carburetor bowl and drain old fuel. Be sure to catch fuel in a safe container. If the carburetor does not have a drain screw, remove the bowl. Step 3: With drain screw open (or bowl removed), ground spark plug wire(s) by removing the plug wire from the plug and holding the plug wire on the black insulation so the metal end touches the metal portion of the engine - be careful not to touch the metal end of the spark wire while cranking the engine. Crank engine to purge "stale" fuel from fuel pump and lines. NOTE: On engines with a mechanical fuel pump, it will take longer to purge the fuel due to the greater capacity of the mechanical pump.
Step 4: Close the carburetor drain screw (or install bowl), reinstall the spark plug wire(s), start and run engine until it is warm to see if the surging is eliminated. NOTE: Some surging at no load is normal on newer engines since the carburetors are set leaner due to the C.A.R.B. requirements for reduced emissions. Surging generally will disappear as the engine warms up and is "broken in."
Step 5: If the engine still performs poorly, stumbles and will not reach fast idle speed specification, it may indicate some varnish or "fine" debris plugging the idle circuit in the carburetor. Carburetor must then be disassembled and thoroughly cleaned. Step 6: See your nearest John Deere dealer
if the problem persists. Additional Information: Aviation fuel is used for factory run-in because it is extremely clean and does not leave varnish deposits when it evaporates. It is doubtful that varnish deposits in the carburetor are from factory fuel. Aviation fuel and some "summer blend" fuels have a higher Reid vapor pressure than typical automotive fuel and do not evaporate as easily, especially at lower temperatures. Therefore, in colder or winter temperatures, the engine may not start as easily. You may need to add fresh fuel to the tank.
What should I do if I mistakenly put 2 cycle fuel oil mixture (used for my trimmer, blower or chainsaw) in the fuel tank for my lawn mower?
Affected Equipment: Gasoline Powered Walk-behind or Riding Mowers
Answer: Most 2 cycle fuel oil mixture is a 32:1 or 50:1 ratio, so the oil content to fuel content is very small. In general, running this fuel mixture in a 4 cycle lawn mower engine designed for "gasoline only" will not harm it in the short term. The oil in the fuel may cause the engine to smoke at times, but should not cause any long term problems from a one time occurrence. If the fuel tank is not full, add regular gasoline to the tank until it is full to further dilute the fuel oil mixture. Label fuel cans appropriately to reduce the risk of this happening in the future.
The mower belt keeps coming off. What should I check?
Affected Equipment: 100 series (L, LA included), G100, G110
Answer: There are a variety of reasons why a mower belt may come off. Below are some basic steps that may be of assistance. As always, you can contact your local John Deere dealer for assistance.
Before doing any checks, be sure the engine is off. Remove the key to prevent accidental starting.
•The first thing to check is the mower mounting system. Raise the deck to its number 4 position. If there are any parts missing the deck will not hang evenly. Look at the rear hangers and make sure the clip pins are in place on both sides. Verify that the front draft rod that connects the front of the mower to the tractor's front axle is connected. •Next, look at the condition of the entire mower belt. Remove the belt, if it isn't already off. See your Operator's Manual for help with belt removal. If the belt is badly frayed, or there are sections of the V missing, the belt will have to be replaced. •Now look at the drive pulleys. It will be necessary to remove the plastic cover to get to the pulley on the left side spindle. Check for foreign objects, like sticks or acorns, stuck in the V. Look for bent or distorted pulley edges. Damaged pulleys will have to be replaced to ensure good belt life. •Check the idler pulleys. Idler pulleys have a ball bearing in the center. The bearing should turn smoothly. A small amount of play in the bearings is acceptable. You should be just barely feeling a slight movement, if there is any play at all. Excessive play indicates replacement is necessary. •Find the movable idler arm on the top of the mower deck. On the 42-inch deck, it is connected to the blade engagement cable. The 48-inch deck has a large spring connected to the arm. Check for grass clippings or other foreign material under or behind the arm that may be limiting its travel. Move the arm by hand. The arm should pivot freely against the spring tension. If the arm seems stuck, try spraying the pivot point with a spray lubricant and try moving the arm again. If the arm still doesn't move, remove the bolt and nut holding the arm to the deck and sand off any rust found on the pivot bolt and the inside of the idler arm with fine sandpaper. •Now check the mower blade spindles. The 42-inch deck has a brake system that locks the spindles when the PTO lever is in the off position. If you have a 42-inch deck, turn the PTO lever on for this next check. With the belt still off, turn each of the blade spindle pulleys by hand. They should turn smoothly. Then grab the nut on the top of the shaft and try to move the shaft left or right to check for bearing play. You shouldn't be able to feel any play in the shaft. If the shaft wiggles, see your John Deere dealer for service. •Finally, measure the pitch or rake of the mower deck. The deck is designed so it cuts best with the blades 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch lower in the front than in the rear. This is sometimes called pitch or rake and is measured at the tips of the blades with the blades pointed straight forward. Excessive rake can cause misalignment of the belt and make the belt come off. See your Operator's Manual for deck leveling procedures. If none of these checks solves the problem, please contact your nearest John Deere dealer
. For assistance with mower belts on other 100 Series Riding mowers please refer to your owner's manual. Many owners manuals are available to view online
How do I remove the mower blade? What size wrench do I need?
Affected Equipment: L100, L108, L110, L111, L118, L120, L130
Answer: Note: The information provided below only applies to the L100, L108, L110, L111, L118, L120, and L130. Other models use different parts and require different tools. First, remove the mower deck. (Refer to Operators Manual for Mower Deck Removal/Installation Instructions) It may be possible to remove the blades without removing the deck, but it is much more difficult. When removing the blade, always wear thick gloves. Even dull blades can have very sharp edges. Gently place the deck so the blades face up. You may want to place a section of carpet or cardboard under the deck to prevent damage to the pulleys and the paint finish. You will need a section of 2x4 (50mmX100mm) wood about 9 inches (229mm) long. Brace the wood between the blade and the deck shell to prevent the blade from turning while you loosen the bolt.
Use a 15mm wrench or a 15mm socket with a ratchet. Don't try to substitute a US sized wrench because it might slip off and damage the bolt head. Position the wrench so you are pushing away from your body. Turn the wrench counter-clockwise. This will loosen the bolt. There are nuts on the other side of the bolt that fit into the blade adapter. These will usually stay in the adapter, but if one comes out, simply push it back into place from the back side of the adapter.
Repeat the same process for the other blades. With the deck and blades off, it's a good time to clean off the old grass clippings that may have accumulated under the deck. Installation is basically the reverse order of the removal process. Remember that the ground edge of the blade and the turned up air foil should face the metal deck shell. Photo shows a cut-away view for illustration purposes.
Turn the bolts clockwise to tighten. Torque the bolts to 46 lb-ft (62 N-m) with a torque wrench. If no torque wrench is available, tighten the bolt until the built-in washer on the head of the bolt contacts the blade, then tighten 1/8 turn more. The bolt should seem very tight. You will have to use both hands and substantial effort to get the bolts tight. Visit the Dealer Locator to locate your nearest John Deere dealer
L1742, L17.542, L2048, L2548, GT2554, S1642, S1742, S2046, S2546, S2048, S2554, SP6211 and SP6213
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